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  Acknowledgments

  While this book was a personal labor of love for nearly five years, it could never have been produced without the help and cooperation of many people. First and foremost were the book’s four main characters: Steven Spurrier, Jim Barrett, Mike Grgich, and Warren Winiarski. Spurrier, the man who made it all happen, was as enthusiastic about the project as I was from the beginning and always responded to my inquiries, even the ones that must have seemed off the wall.

  All three of the winery owners gave me hours and hours of their time, sharing with me the stories of their lives and adventures in wine. Equally important were their assistants, who were always willing to set up new interviews or to handle requests for answers to just a few more questions. Lynne Norton at Chateau Montelena, Maryanne Wedner at Grgich Hills, and Victoria Taylor and Sandra Tovrea at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars were essential in putting the story together and they have my deepest appreciation.

  California libraries became my home for weeks of research. In particular, the Napa Valley Wine Library and the Sonoma County Wine Library were treasure chests of information that helped me put the Spurrier tasting into the context of what had happened to California wines during a century of successes and failures before the Paris Tasting. The raw material in the California Wine Industry Oral History Project of the Bancroft Library at the University of California, Berkeley, was priceless in learning about developments in California prior to the Paris event. The staff of the American Food and Wine Project at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C., was endlessly helpful.

  Although I did the vast majority of the interviews myself, others helped me locate people and in some cases did interviews for me. The most important of these was Judy Fayard in Paris, an old colleague fromTime magazine who still lives and works in the city she loves. She tracked down the French judges who would talk about the tasting and suffered the rebuffs from those who would still not discuss the event. Judy was also very helpful in researching the histories of the French wines at the tasting.

  Elisabeth Kaiser, a friend and former colleague, found the German family with whom Mike Grgich lived for two years after leaving Yugoslavia and before he got a visa to move to Canada, providing an important glimpse of the winemaker at a crucial, but difficult, time in his life.

  While I was traveling the world investigating the globalization of wine, several people stepped up to help me. Mark Pownall, the news editor of theWestern Australia Business News, spent several days introducing me to the leading winemakers in Margaret River. Jacques Thebault, the head of the New York office of Sopexa, the French food and wine promotion organization, gave me plenty of time before I went to France and set up excellent interviews for me during my stay there. Winemakers and owners including Peter Gago, the master of Penfolds Grange, Kevin Judd and David Hohnen of New Zealand’s Cloudy Bay, Véronique Drouhin at Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Philippe Senard in Burgundy, Filipe Larraín at Almaviva in Chile, Jerry Luper and his wife, Carolee, in Portugal, and Simon Barlow in South Africa were all generous with their time and their hospitality. Hervé Briand of the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine in Paris was also very helpful.

  Back in the U.S. the book would never have been completed without the help of three women: my agent Wendy Silbert, who helped me shape the story of a wine tasting into a book; my Scribner editor Rica Buxbaum Allannic, who first grasped the vision of the book, and then constantly encouraged me during the long and lonely writing; and my wife, Jean, who read all the early versions and provided helpful insight and course correction from time to time along the way. The three ladies have my deepest and eternal gratitude.

  Finally, special thanks to Nigel Holmes, for his illustrations that help make the book come alive, and to Michael Smith, who performed digital magic on photos from the Paris Tasting.

  Index

  Aaron, Sam

  Académie du Vin, Paris wine country trips offered

  Acker Merrall & Condit, Manhattan, NY

  Adams, Leon

  Adelsheim, David

  Affluent Society, The(Galbraith)

  Ahern, Albert (Abbey)

  Alicante Bouschet grape

  Alicante Ganzin grape

  Aligoté grape Kir

  Almaden Winery, San Jose, CA

  Blanc de Blancs jug wine

  Alta Californianewspaper

  Alta Mira Hotel, Sausalito

  American Society of Enologists

  American Wines(Schoonmaker and Marvel)

  American Wines and Wine-Making(Wagner)

  Amerine, Maynard

  Ancient Wine(McGovern)

  Anderson, Guy

  Anderson, Susan Heller

  Apple, R. W., Jr.

  Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system, Bréjoux, I
nspector General of Board, categories of wines, 1935 rules, number ofappellations in France, 10; reclassification of Crus Bourgeois

  Argentina: Concha y Toro, wine production and export, 1990–2003

  Ashenfelter, Orley

  Association des Grands Crus Classés, Australia, Barossa Valley and Margaret River, BRL Hardy, Cape Mentelle winery, Casella Wines, Foster’s, grape cultivation, acres in, Kalimna Vineyard, Leeuwin Estate, mergers in wine producers, Moss Wood, Orlando Wines/Jacob’s Creek, Penfolds, Penfolds Grange Hermitage, Redgate winery, Robert Mondavi in, Rosemont, Southcorp, Syrah, Shiraz, wine consumption, winemaking in, wine production and export, 1990–2003, Yellow Tail

  Backus, David and Marian

  Badenhorst, Ari

  Bailey, Chase

  Balzer, Robert Lawrence

  Banyuls, origin in France

  Barlow, Simon

  Barrett, Bo

  Barrett, Heidi

  Barrett, Jim, Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, 1973, and, marketing Chateau Montelena, winner, Paris Tasting, reaction

  Barrett, Laura

  Barrett, Vincent

  Barton & Guestier

  Bâtard-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Burgundy, 1952 vintage wine, 1972 vintage wine, Paris Tasting, Ramonet-Prudhon Chardonnay, 1973, Paris Tasting, response to, price per bottle,

  Baudoin, Raymond

  Baxter, A. W. (Al)

  Beaujolais

  Beaulieu Vineyard, Rutherford, CA, acquired by Diageo, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1936, bottled as Georges de Latour Private Reserve, grapes for, Grgich at, Heitz at, malolactic fermentation introduced, problems at, Sauvignon Blanc, Tchelistcheff at

  Beaune, France

  Beaune Clos des Mouches; Balzer NY tasting, Joseph Drouhin Chardonnay, 1969, Paris Tasting, Joseph Drouhin Chardonnay, 1973,See also Maison Joseph Drouhin

  Benioff, Marc

  Bennion, David

  Beringer, Jacob and Frederick

  Beringer Wine Estates, St. Helena, CA

  Berkeley Wine and Food Society

  Berthomeau, Jacques

  Bespaloff, Alex

  Beyer, Marc

  Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy

  Biever, Margrit

  Bize-Leroy, Lalou

  Blume, Mary

  Bohemian Club, San Francisco, CA

  Boissenot, Jacques

  Bordeaux, France appellations of, blends of varietals in wine of, Bordeaux (city), Cabernet Franc grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, château (wineries) in, claret, climate, Entre-Deux-Mers, 1855 classification of red wines, 1855 classification of white wines, First Growths as apex of reds,garagistes winemakers, Grand Crus classifications, grape growers in, history of winemaking in, Malbec grapes, Médoc, Merlot grapes, 1982 vintage and wine boom, Pauillac, Petit Verdot grapes, phylloxera in, Pomerols, reclassification of Crus Bourgeois, regional consumption of wine, St. Émilion, Sauternes, Second Growth vineyards, soil, size of wine-growing area, Spurrier’s 1975 wine tasting of First Growth red wines, top château wines, by price,See also specific châteaux (wineries)

  Bosseau des Chouad, Gérard

  Bouchain Vineyards, Carneros, CA

  Bouchard Père et Fils

  Boudinaud, Thierry

  Bréjoux, Pierre Paris Tasting

  Broadbent, Michael

  Broody Vineyard, Riderwood, MD

  Brounstein, Albert

  Bruce, David

  Buena Vista winery, Sonoma, CA

  Bujard, Philippe

  Burgess, Tom

  Burgundy, France, Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system in,appellations of, average size estate owned, Beaujolais, Beaune, blended wines of, Chardonnay grapes in, Chardonnay wine of, Catholic Church and winemaking in,châteaux, classifications of wines,climats, Côte d’Or, Dijon (city), estate bottling in, Gamay grapes, history of wine in, Maranges, Montrachet, nomenclature of wines, phylloxera in, Pinot Noir grapes in, Pinot Noir wine, red wines of, regional consumption of wine, size of region, wine brokers in, white wines of, wine in Paris Tasting,See also specific wineries

  Byron, Lord (George Gordon)

  Cabernet Franc grapes

  Cabernet Sauvignon: Australian, Balzer blind tasting of California Cabernet Sauvignons, California wines, Château Haut-Brion, 1970, Chateau Léoville-Las-Cases, 1971, Chateau Montelena, Château Montrose, 1970, Château Mouton Rothschild, 1970, Clos Du Val Winery, 1972, Don Melchor (Chile), Freemark Abbey, Freemark Abbey, 1969, grapes, Bordeaux, grapes, choice for California and world, Heitz Cellars Martha’s Vineyard, Heitz Cellars Martha’s Vineyard, 1970, Howell Mountain vineyard, Ivancie, Mayacamas Vineyards, 1971, Paris Tasting, California wines, Paris Tasting, French wines, Paris Tasting rematch, Paris Tasting rematch, tenth anniversary, Paris Tasting, response to, Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello, 1971, Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet, Schramsberg winery, Souverain Cellars, Stag’s Leap Cellars, 1973, trophy wines, Veedercrest Vineyards

  Cakebread, Jack and Delores

  California: advances in winemaking, 1950–60s, Balzer blind tasting of California Cabernet Sauvignons, Catholic Church and wine in, comparisons of wines with French, dago red wine, divided into wine regions, dry table wine, early wineries in northern California, first commercial winery, first European vines imported, French model emulated, frost problems, ghost wineries, grape picking, 60; grape varietals in, Italian families in, jug wine, malolactic fermentation introduced, marketing wine, direct to customers and mail order, Mission grapes, Napa Valley and Sonoma, history of winemaking in, new breed of winemakers, 1960s, Paris Tasting, price increase for wine and, 216; Paris Tasting, as turning point for California wines, Prohibition and winemaking in, rise of winemaking in, 1960s, sparkling wine in, Spurrier and Gallagher’s interest in wines of, Sustainable Winegrowing Practices program, sweet wine, vineyard specific wine, wine history, winemakers, cooperation among, wine-making and marketing today, wine trade and production, wines unrecognized by the world, World’s Fair in Paris, 1889, and, World War II and wine production,

  Calistoga, CA, Silverado Bar and Grill,See also Chateau Montelena

  Cant, Rev

  Carignane grape

  Carmel, CA

  Carneros, CA

  Carneros Cantos(Baxter)

  Carneros Creek Winery, Carneros, CA

  Carpy, Charles

  Carpy Ranch, Napa Valley, CA

  Casella, Filippo and Maria

  Catawba grapes

  Caves de la Madeleine wine shop

  Chadwick, Eduardo

  Chalk Hill Estate Vineyard and Winery, Healdsburg, CA

  Chalone: A Journey on the Wine Frontier(Apple)

  Chalone Winery acquired by Diageo, first vintage, 1969, 1969 Pinot Noir, 1973 Chardonnay, Paris Tasting Chardonnay, 1974, Paris Tasting rematch winner

  Chambertin Pinot Noir

  Champagne, France, sparkling wines of

  Chapman, Joseph

  Chardonnay: Balzer wine tasting, New York, 1973, Bâtard-Montrachet Ramonet-Prudhon, 1973, Beaune Clos des Mouches Joseph Drouhin, 1973, Brampton, Burgundy, as international standard for white wine, Chalone Vineyard, 1974, Chateau Montelena, Chateau Montelena 1973, Chicago “Great Chardonnay Showdown,” 1980, David Bruce, 1973, Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Freemark Abbey Winery, Freemark Abbey Winery, 1972, grapes, Hanzell vineyard,Heitz Cellars, Martin Ray winery, Meursault Charmes Roulot, 1973, Paris Tasting, California wines, Paris Tasting, French wines, Paris Tasting, reaction to, Paris Tasting rematch, Paris Tasting, results, “pinking in the bottle,” Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles Domaine Leflaive, 1972, Spring Mountain Vineyard, 1973, Veedercrest Vineyards, 1972,

  Charlemagne the Great

  Charles Krug Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, medals won by, Peter Mondavi at

  Charles Shaw wines, Napa, CA

  Charmolüe, Jean-Louis

  Charmolüe family

  Chassagne-Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Joseph Drouhin, 1970

  Chasselas grapes, Fendant

  Château Beychevelle, Bordeaux
/>   Château Cantemerle, Haut Médoc, Bordeaux

  Château Giscours

  Château Haut-Brion, Graves, Bordeaux, 1855 Classification, Paris Tasting, 1970, Paris Tasting, studies of results, price per bottle, Spurrier’s 1975 wine tasting and,

  Château Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux, Spurrier’s 1975 wine tasting and

  Château Lascombes, Margaux, Bordeaux

  Château Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux Spurrier’s 1975 wine tasting and,

  Château Léoville-Las-Cases, Paris Tasting rematch, tenth anniversary, Paris Tasting, 1971

  Château Margaux, Médoc, Bordeaux, Spurrier’s 1975 wine tasting and

  Chateau Montelena, Calistoga, CA bottling at, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay 1973, Chardonnays, grapes of, Grgich at Johannisberg Riesling, Paris Tasting, rematch, Paris Tasting, winner, price per bottle, purchase by Barrett and Hahn, Silverado Cellars label, wine making and equipment, wine production under Barrett and Hahn, wine tastings, firsts in,Zinfandel, Zinfandel 1973,

  Château Montrose, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, Paris Tasting, 1970 vintage, Paris Tasting rematch, tenth anniversary, Paris Tasting, studies of results

  Château Mouton Rothschild, Médoc, Bordeaux, Chilean partnership, label design, Mondavi partnership, Paris Tasting, 1970 vintage, Paris Tasting, reaction, Paris Tasting rematch, tenth anniversary, Paris Tasting, studies of results, price per bottle, reclassification as First Growth, Spurrier’s 1975 wine tasting and,See also Rothschild, Philippe de

  Château Pape Clément, Bordeaux

  Château Pétrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux

  Château d’Yquem

  Chevalier-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy

  Chicago “Great Chardonnay Showdown,” 1980

  Child, Julia

  Chile: Almaviva, Arboleda, Carmenère, Casa Lapostolle, Concha y Toro, French investment in, grape cultivation, acres in, history of wine, J. Bouchon winery, Lapostolle Merlot Cuvée Alexandre, Puente Alto, Robert Mondavi in, Rothschild in, Veramonte,Viña Caliterra, Viña Concha y Toro, 266–68; Viña San Pedro, wine production and export, 1990–2003

  Christian Brothers winery, St. Helena, CA, Brother Timothy, Champagne production, Greystone bought, Grgich and

  Christopher’s, wine merchants